You are rocking the repairs! Nice work (does it ever get old to hear it?)!
Thanks for the heads up on the two yards in Hayden/CDA. I always neglect them for some reason. I had plans to visit them this past Friday, but pruning some trees in the yard took up my day off.
I'll probably get some time off in the second week of April, I'll let you know and we can meet up then.
Sounds good Adam. I am heading back there in a few days to pick up my AC stuff. But I will make the trip again. Let me know.
So I made a little more progress today. I did some fine tuning on the inner panel. I'm using a T post dolly to change the bend. I am trying to make it fit without pushing or pulling the part to line it up. They weld up best that way.
I went ahead and tacked it in. But before I weld it up I need to extract the new used panel from the donor rig. And see if it slips over my panel and has good alignment.
The tacking in. It seems to fit pretty good.
Here is the donor part as cut out from the yard.
I carefully relieved all the welds from the back side and removed the panel.
It fit great.
Not bad in the gap department. The panel is not quite seated in place, but the alignment is great.
And a mock up of everything.
Getting there. I am going to pre paint some of these parts minus the weld zone. But I need to make sure all of it gets paint post weld.
This is the down hill slide. I know of a small repair on the valance, and I believe that will be all the metal work. Hopefully I will find a tail gate that does not need metal work. I have a few in storage.:D :D
As always, looking great and making the rest of us look bad. :thumbsup:
Thanks Mikel, Anybody can do this stuff. I always claim to be and always will be an amateur. This whole process has been like going to school. But without an instructor. If you can walk by this rig when it is all painted and shiny and not see any evidence of all this work, it is then I will feel a great success. I was going to open a business, however at this point I don't feel ready for that. I have some firewood to stack, and garden boxes to build.
I'll be back on this rig hopefully Tuesday. All this darn life stuff gets in the way of progress.:D
Where do you get the Crud Cutter-online, or locally? It looks pretty effective.
I am amazed at the stuff. It is really great for surface rust. It takes a lot of time and re-wetting. But you will be amazed when the lighter rust literally comes off the metal using only a cheap throw away paint brush. It is supposed to be great for chrome with light rust. My 1969 wagoner has chrome wheels that used to be perfect. Well some light rust has formed and I am betting this stuff will do the job. I have the older gold anodized Warn bearing hubs up front. I need to remove the wheels first because this stuff will strip it. It strips gun bluing also. It claims to be a great cooling system cleaner. The other thing is my shipping container. I have tons of parts inside. A couple weeks ago I noticed the container sweating badly inside. Well my parts are suffering. This stuff will take care of it. I have tools I have cleaned up. I really like it.
The site is TM technologies. Kent White is the owner of it. Google him and see what a master this guy is. He is one of the best. I have purchased several of his tools. They are top quality. His heavy slappers are really drawing out the dents in the stainless hubcaps. Cool stuff.
I just popped in to IFSJA to search up some wiring harness kit info. I need to find one. Hey Adam, I'll be in town in about a week. I need to shoot you a phone call.
Hope this info helps.:D
I picked some up at lowes home improvement. It was with the cleaning supplies.
Excellent Achilles. Thanks for that info! I may pick up some more so I can soak some of the more deeply rusted parts. It sure works well on surface light stuff. I have not had a chance to try it on lightly rusted chrome wheels.
I'm hoping to save my wag wheels and some of the bumper pieces. I have an old FJ60 that body rust has stained the bumpers also. I just need a little warmer temps to do any of this stuff.
Moving ahead, or trying to. I got almost 7 chord of fire wood put up. Nice to be done so early. I went to weld up the inner patch panel and saw my cooler on my welder was leaking again. I just completed a custom repair by fitting a car heater core inside the cooler where the heat exchanger used to be. The heat exchanger failed a couple months ago and most all parts are obsolete and no longer available. So it was pay up 1000 bucks for a new cooler or try to fix this one. I successfully fit a heater core inside it. It was tricky but it worked. Removing the cover showed no leaks on the repair.
Unfortunately I discovered the plastic coolant tank had split at the seam on the bottom of the tank.
I drained the unit and carefully tipped it over to smear some blue silicone over the plastic. I then noticed the tank also split where it was resting on the welder frame. Holy cow the plastic was as brittle as glass. I smeared silicone on both fractures and it is drying right now. I should be back in business tonight. If not I will need to buy a new cooler, Ouch
I decided to paint the parts that will be covered up. I noticed my Eastwood rust encapsulating paint seemed a little off. It appears to have been frozen or something. I have NOT been impressed with this paint. I should have taken a picture of the nut and bolt cabinet I slathered some of this paint on last year. It was starting to blister some and lift up with rust under it.
The last few nights have been spent reading up on yet even more rust paint.
I have tried POR 15 and was not impressed. I have used Bill Hirsch urethane and I think it is brittle. It may crack from body flexing and allow moisture in later. The Eastwood stuff is so so. I chose Rust Bullet paint for a couple reasons. Their product web page shows all the tests and proof of product performance. They sell to the military and some big hitters. It seems to be a good product. A 10 year warranty against rust returning. Look at the technical tab.
And another plug for Must for rust. While cleaning more wagoner parts decided to try and fix my Lathe some. Moving has been super hard on my tools. Working out of an open carport in Oregon ruined many things.
I was pleased at the results.
After, Boy does that look better.
So now I am waiting for some paint products to show up. I'll see if the welder is good to go later. I decided to wash up some of the many lens's I have to pic the best for later.
If anyone knows where to get NOS near perfect clear turn signal lens's, please let me know. I could use a couple still.
I need to read up on the best way to restore plastic lens's to save them. Something for the evenings.
More soon. I need to get in some paint before I can weld all this together.
Hey Kaiser- WOW!
WOW. Amazing stuff. Thanks for sharing, again. Wish I had the coin, and facility, to do my Wag like that. A rotisserie resto Wag would be a dream...heck, throw a J-truck and a panel and...haha,this gets out of hand way too easily!
Hey- for rust, have you ever heard of Gibbs Penetrant? Supposed to be super good, go to roadsters.com, check out the stuff the guy has de-rusted/de-corroded with it. If he's being truthful, you could just wet a cloth rag with it, and wipe down your lathe and tools. He seems to be one of those 'bare-metal' hot rodder types, has a bunch of pics of high-dollar items that have been 'Gibbsed'- a 32 Ford, various big buck Halibrand magnesium parts, BBC engines, etc. The pics do look amazing.
Don't know if it's available in the USA, but used to be in a UK based Ford Capri Club, and for internal stuff like rocker rails, etc., they'd use a product called WaxOyl, and inject/spray wand it into those areas to help prevent future rust out.
As for the clear turn lamp lenses- it seems on IFSJA, either Sportsidedan or Red Mistress are the NOS gurus. A new guy named FrossFross is in the Homemade Vendor section- his pics look amazing, if they look that good in real life, and maybe an IFSJA member will post a review, I'll give them a go.
Thanks again for sharing your work, it's amazing to watch. Love the fact a Wag is getting this treatment.
Gibb's penetrant? No I have not. But I am always on a major search for a better rust product. And I was wondering about the best product to reach in places I can't reach easily for long term protection. I want to do the back sides of the rain gutters in the roof, door pillars, and rockers . I'll have to read up on those products. Thanks a million for the info.
Well the welder cooler repair worked like a charm. The plastic tank is as brittle as a bad fingernail. A little RTV smeared over the cracks and I am back in business. I finished welding in the patch on the lower inner panel. I also replaced some pitted metal up near the top lip about the size of a business card.
The Rust bullet paint arrived the same day as my last post. That was some pretty fast shipping. I ordered a six pack of paint. Three regular formula, and three thinner formula automotive (sprayable) cans. I picked up some clear gloss to go on the bare metal items.
Here is the inner panel repaired and soaking in Rust Bullet's metal Blast metal prep.
I could smell the phosphoric in this stuff also. I treated the donor part also.
And about 4 days ago we had a really warm day. I cranked up the wood stove and got the shop nice and warm. I painted the outer skin and the inner panel leaving the weld zone free of paint.
And the outer used part.
So I let them dry for a couple days. We are still getting in the 20's at night. I fed the stove for hours into the evening to try and not let the paint job freeze. Luckily it only made 32 and the shop never came close to freezing inside. Time to final fit the parts and weld them in. After what seemed like a ton of very minor tweaks and slight bends here and there the part fit like it should. No pushing or pulling to close gaps or keep alignment. I still use clamps to hold both sides as tight as possible. This stuff is thin and too much heat and poof. Off into vapor land goes the metal you were trying to weld to. I went to a thinner filler rod and had much better results.
In it goes. I hope I remembered everything.:D :D
One by one I filled the holes establishing new spot welds. I did all of them and carefully ground back the welds with a small 3 inch die grinder with a fat wheel. I also used a pencil grinder with a cutting wheel, followed by a quick light graze with a 60 grit 1.5 inch sanding roloc. I finished it with a 120 disc and it's close enough for now.
I did check the door frequently. Thankfully it looks great.
It is back to rock solid. Not one rust hole. That's as far as I made it today. I am not sure who ordered the snow. But stop it. It has been snowing for 12 solid hours now. I had the stove going full bore. Plus a small heater and the best I could make was 52. I could not paint the last of the parts as it is to cold in there. This fall I will insulate my ceiling.
Once I get the last of the parts painted and welded in the top of the wheel well, I can go after the lower rear quarter. That will be the last of the big metal repairs.:D
On a supplemental completely unrelated note. Yesterday I logged some much needed miles on a quad. Just a mile or two from our home I found these.
And no those are not from a Coyote.:eek: There were a pair of tracks side by side. Following moose tracks.;)
Love it....love it. Did I mention I love this thread??:p
Wish I had the time, skill, and place to do this stuff.
Thanks for the excellent pics and descriptions of what you're doing.
This thing is going to be amazing when done...the cost will most likely exceed the blue book nonsense. But I can understand that some things have more value than just money.
Can't wait to see it finished. Would love to see you do this to an early FSJ- Wag, panel, truck, it wouldn't matter...heck, even a stake/dually.
Thanks for helping to save some Jeep history.
Thanks a million. I too am getting anxious for the final product. I'm trying to plan what makes sense to do next. I need to finish this corner and then think about when to pull the front clip I need to pull the motor and seal it up, then paint it red and find stickers. It also looks like the doors need a lot of attention inside. The list is long. Today I am getting some paint on the last of the small parts to weld back in. It warmed back up outside. And it looks like I found a suitable rubber mini trim extrusion for the taillight housings edge. On the edge where it meets the body panel. I love the internet for this very reason. More soon.
Thanks for the product leads and the people to ask for NOS stuff. I appreciate it!:)
Can you share your source for the rubber mini trim extrusion for the taillight?
This is the place. If the link does not take you to the extrusions you may have to select extrusions and go through the menu's. Style 4 looks very close to original. Original has a longer leg on one side. Probably to tuck under the light housing to hold it in place. It looks like some type of adhesive may be needed to hold it in place. I originally found Hanna because I was searching for "Pliobond" a cement I have been looking for. Pliobond is the best glue for all products I have ever found. It is gas proof, wind proof and becomes stronger with age. If you want to glue glass to metal, this is the stuff. It works on everything you can imagine. Amazon is the best place to buy it.
There are a million companies selling rubber products like this now. It appears they do some custom molding. I wonder about having some of the earlier tailgate parts done?
So I accidentally painted the outside of the patch panel I am about to weld in. Holy moly this paint is tough. Paint stripper and the recommended acetone did not even mar the surface. I either had to make a new part or sand off the paint. I used a 60 grit disc by hand. Wow, this is some tuff stuff.
I have a fire going out there and I should be able to get this all welded in today. It is clamped and ready to go. More soon.
Lets see, where were we? I finished sanding the paint off the outside face of the patch panel. It was tacked on the metal pretty hard. It seems like a pretty good paint. Careful where you put it.:D
Here are the parts sprayed with metal blast and painted.
I let it all dry. The early spring warm temps are helping with the paint work.
I then installed the parts and marked them to see where the trim lines and new plug weld holes will be. The blue tape helped keep the paint away from the weld area. Out comes the punch.
Making sure it still fits well. All that sanding :o
Time to tack it in. Only a couple tacks then grind them near flat. Plannish them and try to level the two parts or sides to be perfectly flat. The wagoneer metal was ever so slightly thinner. I used the smallest filler rod I could buy.
Using compressed air to cool the metal after short welds helps keep warpage down.
I ground off most of the weld and carefully plannished the weld flat. Well mostly flat. I did not leave much room behind the fender lip to bring metal out. And carefully sanded back the weld to try to blend it in. After a little bit of leveling, I can still feel some mild waves by rubbing my palm back and forth.
Sanded and blended.
In the punch picture above you can see my line for where the edge will be. I always trim that off absolutely last so when I weld the part in I can weld all the way to the edge of the metal a lot better with some sticking past the edge. If you cut it flush before you weld the part in, you always have a divot to try to fill on the edge of metal. I just trim the excess off later and the divot if there is any is really small or gone completely.
Here is a shot from a few feet back. It's getting there. I need to do some fine tuning.
Here is a shot with a couple strokes of a fine body file run down the surface. I could feel the waves. This reveals the highs and lows. Don't take any material off, just enough to see the contact. Despite my best efforts with the air and short welds the metal still moved. Welding heat stresses metal no matter what.
More soon. A little work on the lip area and then to weld in the inner panel. Attach the two to firm it up and the lower rear quarter and the last major replacement is next.:thumbsup:
Have you tried a shrinking disc to get rid of those small highs?
I might give them a call to see if they would be willing to send one of us a small sample to try and see if it will work.
No I have not ever used a shrinking disc.. I would like to get familiar with them though. I wonder if Utube might have something on it. If I had just given myself a tiny bit more room to work from the back it would be a slam dunk. Not a big deal. I'm hoping to wrap up some home stuff and get back out there this afternoon. My wife has been gone nearly two weeks now. Her mother broke her leg in a fall. Her Moms boyfriend broke his hip two days later. They are kind of a mess. I miss my girl. More in a bit.
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