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fsjeep 11-07-2003 02:54 PM

I just picked up a york long stroke compressor and a tank and fabbed up my brackets, now I want to plumb it all in and wire it up...anyone got any good links for the tech, or any good diagrams? Any tips or suggesions are welcome as well. I havent bought any of the other things yet..pressure switch, safety pop off valve, etc....any pressure rates and hose sizes would help as well to make all the right choices. The tank I bought is rated for 150psi. Thanks Dwain

dnixon 11-07-2003 05:25 PM

there i a guy with the nick obi-wan or something like that. he has a pretty good write up on plumbing a OBA system.

Here is his site: http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/yorkair.html

Here is another site which has some links to other OBA stuff: http://homepage.mac.com/rifraf/york.html

Stolen76 11-08-2003 11:59 AM

when it comes to the hoses, pick up some air brake hose and fittings from a big truck parts house. Coming off of your compressor, use an A/C hose or a section of copper tube as it gets pretty hot and you will melt rubber hose and be prone to leaks.

scotty 11-08-2003 01:16 PM

heres how ive got mine:


im using my bumpers as tanks,but the principal is basically the same no watter what you use for a tank

also,the piece of hose between the compressor and one way valve is part of the factory a/c line,not 3/8 air line

hope the little diagram helps [img]smile.gif[/img]

dnixon 11-08-2003 03:15 PM

Here is Scotty's picture.. His bitmap took forever to download so here is a updated optomized version.

This is exactly what i plan to do, i might put in an oil seperator maybe after the compressor, and a water seperator before the chucks..
Another thing i thought of doing before is having the light hooked up between the pressure switch and the compressor so the light switches on when ever the compressor is pumping. But I like the idea of having a light for when you actually have the switch on so you can make sure the compressor won't turn on during water crossings, or another situation where you wouldn't want it to kick on..

SCOTTY: Where did you get the pressure switch? Local shop? What brand? I haven't been able to find them... thanks..

scotty 11-08-2003 11:20 PM

im currently using a simple well pump switch. i got it for round $10 at a place called contractors warehouse. it works,but lets the pressure drop to almost 60 psi before kicking back on,so it cycles between 60 and 130.

you canget an actual air compressure pressure switch for around $15 from a place called "surplus center" ill try and dig up a phone # and part numbers for ya later

i plan on upgrading mine to keep the pressure more in the useable range/ air tools dont work so well at 60 psi ;)

fsjeep 11-09-2003 12:22 AM

good info guys, I was looking through a catalogue and noticed the pressure switches this one place carried were for 120V, where should I be looking and what should I be looking for in a switch? What sort of intake filter should I use, just something like a bugpack or K&N style filter or something different? Thanks again for all the info....the oil/water separator really recommended?

BTW...very nice diagram scotty

thanks Dwain

dnixon 11-09-2003 02:02 AM

Thanks scotty!

FSJeep, my reason behind it is that you don't have drains in your tanks then you are going to get condensation in your tanks and it will come out with your air. And if you use the air for tools then I am pretty sure its not good for them. That was my under standing. And I previously had heard that the york won't spit oil or anything like that...But the other day when a few of us were on the dunes a guy had an air line hooked up straight off the york and while he was trying pump up a tire it was spitting oil like crazy, after that i really think i am going to have one after the compressor...

scotty 11-09-2003 02:26 AM

donavan,did that guy have his compresor mounted sideways,or straight up? if hes got it mounted sideways,it may have simply been overfull. you have to be careful bout filling them up to much,specially when mounted sideways,and the oil can get sucked into the cyls and blow the little sucker up,much like hydro locking an engine.

i hav emine mounted vertically,and it doesnt seem to use,or spit out much oil at all. i check it now and then,and it never seems to be much lower than the last time. nonethless,an oil seperator is prolly not a terrible idea. it would prolly be beneficial for the air tools if some oil seeped out ;) but could eventually fill up your storage tanks if you dont have drains

a water seperator is also reccomended,mine spits out lots of water(despite having drain plugs in the bumpers and periodically draining them) and as a result,all 4 of my tires prolly have 1/2 gallon or more water in em by this time :eek:

i will defianely be adding a water seperator to mine after i get my new tires mounted,in order to keep that to a minimum

fsjeep 11-10-2003 11:08 AM

what do you guys recommend for upper and lower limit pressures for a pressure switch, I see some switches are adjustable and some are not, gonna be used for airing up tires and running the odd air tools.....thanks in advance, Dwain

scotty 11-10-2003 05:47 PM

most air compressors cycle between 100 and 130. most air tools(specially stuff like saws and cut off tools) dont work very well too much below that. thats why i need a different switch for mine- 60 pse will barely spin the impact :eek:

another part of it that id forgotten to add to the diagram is a wire from the switch to a fast idle solenoid on the carb,so when i flip the system on i can kicj the idle up to 1500 rpm or so. air builds up much,much faster above idle speeds [img]smile.gif[/img]

dnixon 11-10-2003 06:05 PM

okay what about this for the pressure switch? It says something about 120v but i assume what ever the voltage you plug into it would work right?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...90&catname=air

Air filter will it work? http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...29&catname=air

Check valve?: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...21&catname=air

safety valve?: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2003111100315943&item=432&catname=air

tee fittings?: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...LL&catname=air

gauge?: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...00&catname=air

Possible air tank: http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...56&catname=air

I thought that 120 psi is a good setting for Pressure switch shut off. Do you guys see any problems with 1/4" line? Too big too small? Tank seems kind of expensive but its already got the fitting bungs and such. The safety valve is adjustable but 150 is the rating of the tank so 150 or 160 would be a good setting i thought. I picked a gauge that goes up to 200 just incase all else fail i'll be able to see what the heck is going on before the tank explodes. The next lower psi reading is 160. just to close to the safety valve... these are just my thoughts on it all. What you think of this junk?

dnixon 11-10-2003 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by scotty:
another part of it that id forgotten to add to the diagram is a wire from the switch to a fast idle solenoid on the carb,so when i flip the system on i can kicj the idle up to 1500 rpm or so. air builds up much,much faster above idle speeds [img]smile.gif[/img]
dude you are a freakin' genius.. i never would have though about that.. good call.. did you hook that up to the solienoid that is already there that is for the warm up solienoid? I could ride the pedal a little for warm ups for the ability to have the fast idle during airing...

CowKiller 11-10-2003 10:10 PM

www.onboardair.com

scotty 11-11-2003 02:31 AM

donavan,yup those are the ones i was refering to. i was just about to post the phone # for a catalog [img]smile.gif[/img]

surplus center has alot of cool stuff,yes? :D

looks like youve figured out everyting youll need. the 115 volt switch will work fine,it is a simple contact switch that doesnt really care what voltage is going thru it

and yes,im using a factrroy a/c solenoid. it is not strong enuff to bump the throtte up by itself,so i flip the air switch,then push the gas pedal,and the rpms go up [img]smile.gif[/img]

dnixon 11-11-2003 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cow Killer:
www.onboardair.com
thats sooooo the easy way out ;)

Helpful Diagram with OBA.com part number's

[ November 11, 2003, 08:38 AM: Message edited by: SLOwag ]

dnixon 11-11-2003 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by SLOwag:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Cow Killer:
www.onboardair.com

thats sooooo the easy way out ;)

*EDIT* easy way and VERY EXPENSIVE way.. the stuff from the links i provided above is a TENTH of what OBA.com is charging. Looks like a good parts LIST source but i am getting my stuff the above sources, All the stuff looks the same too. *EDIT DONE*
Helpful Diagram with OBA.com part number's
</font>[/quote]

DieselSJ 11-11-2003 12:33 PM

One of the guys over on the CJ boards started with a small air compressor from Checker/Shucks/Kragen - something like $60 for a tank, pressure gauge, safety valve and pressure switch. He pulled off the 110v motor/pump, mounted the tank and plumbed it to his York, and wired an on/off switch through the pressure switch. Plus, it is all in a nice compact package.

Zorm 11-16-2003 10:29 AM

Ok, have any of you seen OBA with A/C? I have a york for my A/C and it blows nice and cold, now I wnat to put OBA on but keep the A/C any place I can go have a look see?
I have a 258 so the compressor is already mounted on the left side (looking at if from the front) I was thinking about mounting another comp on the right side, above the power stearing pump

gladiator 11-16-2003 05:06 PM

I have been finding a lot of chrysler products in the wreckers lately with a v-twin type compressor. I looks like it would have a separate sump for oil, similar to the York style. Has anyone tried to use one of this style for OBA yet?


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