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SJTD 03-15-2013 03:08 PM

My '84
Maybe it’s a little late to start a build thread on this since I started around ’95, stopped around the turn of the century and didn’t take pics along the way.

But I like to look at pics of other guy’s stuff and since I started working on it again a few months ago I took some pichers of my progress.

Front Suspension:


Tad 03-15-2013 04:34 PM

Looks good!

SJTD 03-20-2013 02:07 PM

I have the interior gutted. Under (above?) the headliner were strips of what appeared to be asphalt based sound insulation. They were debonded and resting on the headliner.

I was debating what to replace them with. Conventional wisdom is to iron on a layer of Dynamat or one of the knock offs.

Then I came into some two part urethane foam for free so I’m going to use that. It will certainly provide thermal insulation and stiffen the roof. I think it’ll do a good job on wind noise coming through the roof.

Since I plan to inject it into the channel around the edge of the roof then spray the flat areas I have to deal with the the A-pillar/roof joint first.

Looks like six or seven different pieces meet here. They used some stiff Bondo-like filler and seam sealer. When it fails water gets under the paint and into the seams. It can also run down into the door hinge cavity. If the sealer between that cavity and the interior has a hole you have source of water to rust the floor.

There’s a gap in the drip edge that is supposed to be covered by a stainless piece. Note some factory brazing. Doesn't go well with welding unless you remove it.

I’m not reusing the plastic covered aluminum trim. If I can’t find (or am unwilling to pay for) some old stainless trim I’ll do without. That means filling the gap. The lower piece is for the left side. The other two are for the right. The right windshield gutter doesn’t come up high enough to meet the roof gutter so two pieces are needed.

Gutter edge finished. Still have to fill in the gap underneath and braze it up. I didn't want to try to remove the factory brazing so there will be some gaps to close where it was to close to the braze to weld.

The filler piece for the underside

My only concern it that these joints will now be stiff and crack. Time will

serehill 03-20-2013 02:57 PM

where did you get your rear spring mounts?
They look great. I need some.

the original Honcho 03-20-2013 03:58 PM


Originally Posted by serehill
They look great. I need some.


SJTD 06-25-2014 01:39 PM

Got the body primed with epoxy, need to do the seam sealer.

There were some places on the cowl with more big blobs of the hard filler. I put in some patches to allow use of flexible sealer.

I decided not to seal the lower edge of these. Seems to me they should allow drainage or water could puddle. The openings only enter the cowl; not the interior.

Sprayed the two part urethane foam on the roof.

Trimmed it to the crossmembers. Need to add a little more here and there. It ended up about ¾” thick in the two center areas.

The front and rear area have room for more since the headliner sits on the structure above the windshield and tailgate and slopes to the nearest crossmember. Also plan to fill the hollow members at the front, back and sides.

It really does take the “bong” out of the roof in those areas; not so much in the center sections where its thinner. I think they are better but it’s hard to say for sure. The camera didn’t save the before recordings. Don’t know if the camera mic would have been good enough anyway.

If I were to do it again I think I’d put up some CLD strips first.

Been pondering the headliner board. One problem with finding a replacement is that the front section is about 50” long. Most material comes in 48” widths. The rear section is only 44”. If I’d noticed this before I would have moved the crossmember. Now I plan to attach a strip of steel about 2” wide to the crossmember and attach the divider strip to that making the front section less than 48”

SJTD 06-25-2014 04:05 PM


Originally Posted by serehill
They look great. I need some.

Just noticed you asked about the spring mounts.

Sorry I didn't see it earlier. I made them.

JPSwapMohn 06-25-2014 07:51 PM

The foam is an interesting idea.. I pulled some support beams out of a jy saggy that I will add to my roof to get some extra support. Might be an idea to add support to the larger sections of roof..

mdill 06-26-2014 11:00 AM

I would have left the gapping holes open there, easier for leaves and crap to be flushed out of the cowl, X2 on not sealing drain holes.
Looking good though, nice job on the roof and suspension.


Originally Posted by SJTD
Got the body primed with epoxy, need to do the seam sealer.

There were some places on the cowl with more big blobs of the hard filler. I put in some patches to allow use of flexible sealer.

I decided not to seal the lower edge of these. Seems to me they should allow drainage or water could puddle. The openings only enter the cowl; not the interior.[/IMG]

Tinkerjeep 06-26-2014 11:08 AM


Never thought of running spray foam in my cab. Always figured it would stink like crazy everytime it got hot.

BTW, what does your Sig say in Latin: "Always chipping rust?"?? that would be fitting for a Jeep.

SJTD 06-26-2014 03:23 PM

Those holes were "sealed" by the factory and I was just looking for a better way to do it than some form of bondo like the factory used. After thinking about it I decided not to seal them. Leaving them open probably would have been better. I can always remove them if junk appears to be building up on them.

I find it appalling the number and size of holes Jeep just plugged up with various types of filler/sealer. There are some inside the cowl that will leak into the cab, some on the edges of the firewall, the ones already mentioned at the top of the A pillar, the top corners of the windshield, etc, etc.

Maybe other cars were built like this and I just never got into them in this much detail.

SJTD 09-29-2014 05:22 PM

Got two coats of AL's HNR on the interior. Used the undercoating gun that comes with the Raptor kit.


Two coats, one gallon. Another gallon to get the recommended coverage:

Close up:

When wet it doesn't have much texture other than the splatter from the gun. After drying it smoothes out and shrinks back and looks like flat paint with fine sand. Not something I'd want to leave exposed.

It's going to get coated with Raptor from a HVLP gun.

SJTD 09-30-2014 12:48 PM

Since the interior is stripped I’m thinking about what to do about trim.
The door panels will be redone in a more tasteful less busy pattern.Pillars between the doors below glass level will be the same material. Kick panel either the same stuff or carpet.

Shelf paper above the door panels will be gone. Panels will end where they should, at the top of the recessed part of the doors. All the vinyl and plastic on pillars at glass level will be gone. Dash pad will be gone.

So what to do with all this exposed metal. Thinking about two possibilities other than paint. First is a coat of Raptor, same color as the exterior, sprayed with an HVLP gun for more uniform texture. Fairly thick on the doors for comfort when resting my arm on it.

Same on the pillars and around quarter windows. Same on the dash but I’m wondering about glare from a light color. Any worse than the huge off-white hood? Tint it to match the upholstery? (gray)

Other possibility on the top of the doors would be the same material as the panels, maybe even padded, but I’m wondering about it being tucked under the door wipe affecting the fit of the wipes which I’ve read can be problematic on their own.

Whadaya think?

SJTD 02-23-2015 01:48 PM

My headliner boards are shot. Tried soaking them in the pool and laying them out in the sun wrapped in a tarp to steam them back to shape but it didn’t work. Prolly wouldn’t trust the permanence of such a fix anyway. Being that I’m too cheap to buy one from SMS I’m looking for an alternate.

One problem with replacing them is the size; front board is 50” long x 54” wide and most materials come in 48” x 96” sheets:

Since the rear board is only 43” long a simple fix would be to move the center crossmember forward a few inches but that won’t work for me since it thought of it after doing this:

My solution:

Don’t drill through the roof

Pop riveted the straps in place. Used some windshield adhesive under them to help assure no squeaks and rattles. The lines are where I had to cut the foam for the flanges on the divider mounting channel

Had to notch the flange of the channel on one side to clear the straps

Channel in place


Prolly going to use Coroplast at $15 ea for the two sheets required. I was thinking of using it for the door panels too but it won’t hold staples so I’m not sure about attaching the material. Maybe adhesive will be enough?

serehill 02-23-2015 02:42 PM

I'm going to try this on Masonite.

Carnuck 02-24-2015 01:23 PM

Won't the foam release formaldehyde gas in the hot sun? That's why it was stopped for houses.

SJTD 02-24-2015 01:34 PM

Hope not. This stuff is supposed to be used in house walls.

Carnuck 02-24-2015 04:44 PM

Is it UFFI or Icynene Spray Foam Insulation? There is a huge difference in the outgassing. UFFI is only allowed in some places for crack sealing.

SJTD 02-25-2015 09:19 AM

  • Versi-Foam® does not contain any urea formaldehyde, VOC's, CFC's or Penta-BDE's. The use of proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is required during application. Please see the MSDS and Operating Instructions for PPE guidelines.
Being urethane it does use isocyanate hardener.

SJTD 04-20-2015 02:40 PM

Made some progress on the headliner. Was going to use Coroplast which comes in a fabric coated version. Figured it might be usable as is. Local distributor didn’t have that but had the Stinger version which has a honeycomb core rather than corrugations so there are no grooves on the surface. About $30 a sheet.

Layed it out adding about 1/8” on each side in hopes of forcing some arch into it so it won’t sag. The stuff is not very stiff over a large span. The ends of the sheet were off square by about 1/4". Used a drywall square to draw a center line and worked off that.

Tried bending a small piece and the outer layer broke. No way you could fold it without making a crease first. Put a thick washer in the lathe and rounded the edge to make a tool for making the creases.

It’s still hard to fold and makes it a little difficult to install but that springyness seems to help keep it from sagging.Rear half test fit. Needs to move back a bit.

It’s 5mm thick or about .2” so quite a bit thicker than the original. I crushed the edges some but will probably have to do it more before putting on the fabric to get it to fit in the grooves on the sides. It’s pretty tight now.

Front piece is more complicated.


With the rear.

Didn’t take a picher but when I put the aft section in it turned out the fwd section was crooked. Looked really bad and had me worried. The creases didn’t line up and the angles of the sides were off. A little work with hammer and block to to move one side back it out got most of the misalignment out. It didn't want to move. There’s still a little issue on the right side.

Once I get the edges a little looser in the channels and the divider in hopefully that will resolve.

Now it all has to come out for the fabric installation and painting the edge and end trim pieces.

And in the tradition started by ProTouring442 here’s a few critter pics. The first is from a few months ago. The two she’s sitting on are long gone.

This one’s from Saturday. I think these guys will be gone by the weekend when I get home.

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