Did I miss what the gray is on the good metal? Is that sand blasting or gray primer?
It's gray primer. One year ago this month I moved from Scappoose oregon down on the river to up here in the hills where I should have been years ago.
With the move and the family issues (6 deaths in 18 months) I knew the rig may sit. I primered it to hopefully preserve my work. It did an OK job. I am able to resume my work on it now.
Driftwood, I sent you a PM with the VIN tag. I think the paint code was 4 B.
I have never seen this orange before. Or the horrendous check pattern on the rear seat. Love those 70's !!;) The white door panels are not to bad either.
I want to make door panels when I complete my shop. I am planning a 23X30 loft for clean work like this. It is not happening soon enough.:D
I am very eager to do this.
Well I would say faded transport yellow. Cool chart. My 69 and the 70 in this thread are avacado mist. They will stay original. I am working a trade of the 73 motor and trans trans to a friend who just completed a very deluxe spray booth at his home. It's all falling together.:drivin:
Great googly moogly!
An old co-worker called today to tell me a truck I built a few years ago for a guy made it to the cover of "Custom Classic Trucks".
I did not know it till today. I did a ton of metal work on it. Reworked the dash, made AC invisible, etc I also fitted all the running gear and brakes. It's here at this site. The link won't work directly. Click on projects. It's a 1964 F-100. The owner had it badged as a PH-100. He had some different ideas.:p I also made the 72 corona frame featured on the site. I left before it got done.
And the mag front.
http://www.magazine-agent.com-sub.info/subscribe?did=2&page=44&sourcegroup=GOOGLE>kw=cu stom%20classic%20trucks%20magazine&crtv=2769867581 &source=search&domain=www.magazine-agent.com-sub.info&UMC=1169&mtrack=subscribe-puremagagent&partner=-&xid=1&redirect=no&st=Custom%20Classic%20Trucks%20 magazine&gclid=CLHDgtzO1LECFUhjTAodCx4ApA
That was cool to see.
And I'll have some more pictures soon of the metal work here. I need to get more done first. I have to quit at 1 or 2Pm because of the heat.
I have been following your thread for a while, you do great work! Seeing some of the things you have done has inspired me to take on some much smaller, and less skillful things, and have the satisfaction of doing them myself
Well thanks. I always ended up doing my own work because I was to cheap to pay someone else to do it. That and I could not afford it. :)
I've got a little missalignment going on on the 70. It looks like I may need to reset the inner lip. And tug on some stuff. I don't want to weld till it's in the exact spot. I'll be out there again today. And the urethane paint showed up:thumbsup: .
Well I thought I had some panel movement, but it turns out my repair piece was to fat. After a ton of checking and measureing the other wagoneers here I determined I just needed to keep fitting it.
This is what I found. Thankfully I had only tack welded it in.
After it fit a bit better I welded it in.
I had to replace a small section of the wheel house.
Looks better now.
Then the outer skin got some attention. I decided to use the original piece and spot repair it. I have complete replacement Quarters that will be for sale soon.
Here is is before the repair. Typical of most wagoneers.
Making a new part fit.
After welding it in and cooling each weld with air, I sanded it back and plannished it well as it could be. After leveling it with plannishing I sanded the remaining weld bead off. The challenge will be welding the quarter back in. My welds are out in the middle of the panel. I love a challenge.:D
Then off to find the parts I made at my old home and shop. These are the lower rear corner reinforcements. They are hand made and need quite a bit of fine tuning still. It took me a while to find them. I like to hide stuff from myself.:D
So It looks like I secured the use of a recently completed paint booth in trade for the 360 and trans and transfercase from the 73 I just bought. As long as the motor runs it is a go.
So I guess I won't have any excuses on the paint job.:p It will be the original Avacado mist.
You do amazing work. Wow.
you telling me thats a 73?
not with that rear axle it aint.
that not the OE rear axle...yes?
No kenall, it's still the 70. LOL I bought a 73 donor wagoneer on craigs list a couple weeks ago.
There are a few more details about it in earlier posts.
Al, as usual I am amazed with your work. I hope some day I can do it half as well as you. :)
Well thanks Mikel. I'm still trying to figure out what I am doing half the time. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Well not a whole lot has happened this week. Or at least on this old waggy.
We had yet another power outage and when it came back on 7 hours later the refrigerator was DOA. I found a new one that fit and even fixed a water leak.
So today I did get some of the Eastwood paint on the inner wheel well. I was careful to mask off the seams so I can weld them. I will wick paint in there later post weld. This is not urethane paint like the Bill Hirsch stuff. I painted some sheet metal in various stages of rust. Lets see how well it does in a very damp winter environment sitting up here. My search for the best rust stopper is never ending.
Here it is before the paint.
I follow the directions exactly. Two good coats.
Just about ready to put the skin back on.
I wanted to mention two cool new tools. One is a respirator for welding. I have an older friend who is in really bad shape from metal work all his life. He is on an oxygen bottle. I am now having a hard time understanding him on the phone. After a little reading about long term exposure to the different byproducts of welding I was convinced to do something. Especially at the urges of my friend. I hope it helps as I already have some breathing issues.
The other was a cool spot weld cutter from Lisle. I just got it also and it is better than a chisel. So if you are cutting spot welds, this is pretty cool.
Less distortion and it is obviously hardened.
I got a little more done. I managed to get a couple more cords of firewood put up since my last posting. Winter is coming.
I have been tuning the outer skin to prep it for welding back in. I decided to replace another part since the pitting was pretty bad. I could seal it with paint but it may crack through later because it is so thin. This should fix that.
The patch after shaping it to the area. I could not use my bending brake for this one. I marked a curved bend line and hammered it over a buck mounted in a vise. Lots of fitting.
After sanding and plannishing. The old part is also there. Pretty thin.
The front side.
I have welded up all the drilled spot weld holes. Then punched the flanges with new smaller holes for a plug weld. It's close to being ready. I need to dig out the rear doors and fit them. And, I need this panel to be as perfect as possible. I can't get much of a dolley behind all this when it gets installed.
I ran a straight edge down the side. Good thing as I found I had welded a slight crown into it. This would be very hard to get rid of later. A couple light pulls on the stretcher and it came right in.
Now it's to get all the mated surfaces to contact each other nicely without to much clamping pressure. A slow and tedious process.
I have the doors out and ready to hang. Thankfully I saved the shim packs on each hinge and striker plate with a tye wrap. I'll start with that. My goal is to have the other side completed by the time the weather gets bad. I have about a month plus. Then all the rust holes are gone. I have a few things to get done in prep for the winter. I need to put up a chimney and fix a backhoe along with a few other things. But I should be back pretty soon.
Thank you and have a great Labor Day.
Absolute artwork. This is better than watching a 3-hour action/adventure movie.
Question, how do you get the primer/paint to "wick" into the overlap joints? I thought you mentioned it once but I'm on cold medicine and unable to read too far back at the moment.
I was using a syringe with a great big needle and also without the needle. That was with the urethane paint and it trashes the syringe. I plan on a real good going over on this rig when I get done. All the seams and I also need to add the sealant putty in the spots the factory did it. The seams will be the first stuff to rust if it does.
I bought a can of the Eastwood paint that has a long snout with a spray nozzle on the end. I was going to try that on the hard to reach spots like in the roof.
It gets really damp up here. I wish I could get the paint on the 70 here this fall. It's hard on metal. My 69 wagoneer is suffering from just one year up here. I crawled under it a couple days ago and took a look.:eek:
And I am pretty slow with this stuff.:p There are lots of things on my to do list.
Get well from your cold. Those are never any fun.
There is seriously an 'ART' to what you do..
Thanks! But my "art" has a misalignment. I have been looking at it for a month now in the evenings. I believe I understand where the problem happened. I think I have a solution. The rear door opening has a slight diamond shape. When I cut the underlayment the rear quarter moved some.
I have also been able to get a lot done for my shop this last month. Ground work. I intended to spend two or three days on laying drain pipe. Well one month later and I am almost done....:D
I'll post up more when I can. Just a quick follow up message. It's getting colder every day up here.:)
Well I had let this bug me long enough. I had to cut something yesterday.
I hung the door and found the door striker way up out of adjustment range. The door was already up the highest it would go. Also no more shims behind the top hinge. The door opening and lines looked awful. Thats when we came to a grinding halt. This is what can happen when you try to put a rig back to straight after coming in with everything totally collapsed from rust. You can't really brace much. It's already sitting caterwhompus on the mounts. So hoping the repaired factory panels would correct most of it by welding them in the same spots has been relatively successful till now.
In a nutshell, tack weld it and check the darn door fit next time.
Here is what I found. Nothing will ever leave this place even close to this.
Looking closely I found this clue. In the forward part of the wheel well this is where I joined the reworked factory panel to the existing rig. You can see the wheel house needs to come down about 3/16th to match the lines from the front part of the panel.
I removed my last panel to see what I could move. The silver lines were my old cut lines. I hate cutting work up.
I made a backing plate for the rear seat back latch. Under I made a eye to grab with a hook.
I pushed, I pulled I cried. It would not move and stay in place. I was able to see now what it needs. I need to separate the entire seam on the inside of the wheel house wrapping around the house including seraration from the rocker. Once loose I can pull the wheel house down in front and weld it back.
This will bring down the door pillar and straighten my door reveal.
The big problem is I put urethane paint in the seam with seam sealer up top.
So I have a welding problem now. It will look like swiss cheese if I try and weld to that. The paint must come out. I would recommend sealing the seams as a last step before body and paint if anyone tries to wick paint in like that.
I am unsure if I will be doing much as the rains are now dumping and my carport roof leaks everywhere. And the temps are dropping. When I was a kid I used to work outside year around on my CJ-5 and not notice the temps. :D I really could use my shop right now. I have a lot of projects I want to finish.
Plus the home and property needs. Lots to do.
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