As far as the hub cap resto, check out craigslist there are some real nice originals on there. as of this morning. Your local I'm assuming. PDX
Good luck with the other aspects of this project i'm sure everything will turn out sweet.
Well now that the primer sealer has had some time to dry nice and hard, I can move around on it and do the rest of the work. It did reveal a bit of work. I have some depressions over the hat channels. I will need to go back and shrink it or use the new-used stud gun welder I bought from CL. My goal is only spot putty and not filler.
So I have been looking at the hole in the roof. I cut a part from the roof for a patch out of the scrapped 69 that got cut up. Here is the hole before poking at it.
I decided to remove all the gutter sealant on both sides to see if there was corrosion under it. The drivers side was bad but treatable without replacement in some spots. The passenger side had new looking metal under it. Sweet!
After some messy wotk with a 4.5 peanut grinder with a wire wheel I ended up with this. :eek: I knew I should have saved the roof from the 69.
Here is the profile of the work. I can only get to one side. And it's totally visible on the outside. So I better make it look good.
I started getting ready to take a piece from the part I cut out. My biggest challenge is how to get a good cut in the bottom of the rain gutter successfully cutting the top rusty layer out and NOT cut the rain gutter itself.
I after realizing I needed a bigger patch than I saved scrapped the idea and went for a new part made from one piece. This is going to be very visible. Less chance of a visible deviation in the panel with one patch and not two.
So I elected to see if I could match it. I needed a patch about 10 inches long.
The roof is thinner than the sides. At about .030 to 0.32 it is thin. The body metal is about .044 and easier to weld. I had a .030 piece to work with.
Now I need to clean the gutter out. To get it down to the metal it will lay on. Also this is to lay in my patch and get a very exact cut. No gaps to fill here. I seem to like to make gaps once in awhile. Sneak up on it. Absolutely do pry against the roof metal. Try to leave it alone while cleaning.
I used a o-ring pick, a sharp narrow chisel, a air cornwell mini grinder, and a 3 inch high speed air grinder with a 1/4 wide disc.
Now the gutter is clean, the new part will lay in correctly and provide an accurate scribe and cut line. Now to make the part...
I just start at one end. Attempting to match the profile exactly I sometimes have to search the shop for the right object to make a bend.
I was lucky to have the cut away piece to get really good close up visuals.
Start at one edge. Make the mark in the middle of the radius. In the bender make some pratice bends to see what it takes to match the radius. Start your bend just before your mark. Try to keep that mark in the middle of the bend.
Helpful note: I put a bend in the flange opposite my work. While it will get cut off later it makes the panel much more workable by providing minimal flex side to side but still allowing my bend front to back. So when I am pulling the part over to bend it, that flange makes the whole panel bend equally and not more where you were pulling hardest. It eliminates waves.
Now the first bend is good. Now I will mark it right where the curve of the roof starts to bend so I can try to match it.
I found a brass rod to clamp down. It was at the right height to bend from.
Over bending will toast the part. Sneak up on it ten times if needed.
The back side will reveal to much fold or a crease. I had to do about 20 lightstrikes on the sand bag to even it up.
It is looking good. Never scribe the top cut till the part is able to completely lay in the gutter. And clamp it down. You could use a small rod with a pair of visegrips if your clamps are to big for the gutter gap.
With some very light edge dressing, the part now fits with no interference. Interference will translate to warpage later when welded.
Since I can only really reach one side, I am using super magnets to keep it flush. These will really mess with your welding. I need to keep them as far away as possible when welding.
Ready to go after some small plug weld holes for the gutter floor. I better lay off the coffee on this one. :D
Back after the 4rth.
I have some good news and some bad news.
The good news is I got an offer on my home I have accepted. I am scrambling to get concrete and power at my new place for continuing the work on this old girl. I need to be out by the end of august. Very long days ahead. And I got my land use approved. ONLY 16 pages long with 14 requirements.:( I hope to have a roof over my head by snowfall.:p
The bad news is I am going to have to idle this project and thread for a while.:( I am going to have to button up the roof before moving her. My wagoneer needs a rocker tacked in before moving it up there. I'll post up when I can get to it. I have enjoyed working on this rig and stepping away from the madness of things lately. All the hard work and determination is paying off both with this rig and the big move.
I'll be back soon.:thumbsup:
We'll be here when you return! Good luck with the move.
Milestone day today! Picture a wagoneer sitting in there! Pick a side.:D :D :D
220 and 110VAC on the way.
Nice pole barn!!!
You can only polish a turd so much. It drains to the driveway instead of into the ravine. The wood poles only go into the concrete about 4-5 inches not even below ground level. A good wind could make a kite if it was strong enough. But it will do for now.
I added the end storage and concrete to try and have a spot to work till the real shop is done. I need a wind break for TIG welding still. Progress though.
Ground breaking for the 30X60 is in two weeks. I spend every waking moment either moving stuff up or trying to keep the plans in motion.
AND or wondering just how much all this is going to cost.
Plus, my home sale is going through without any issues!:D :D :D I am out by August 29th. PNW woods here I come.:)
I have to ask... with a career in semiconductors, how did you ever find time to train/learn such skilled metalworking? I am asking as a guy that spent 15 years in that field as well..
Good luck with the move into the Great North Wood..
"I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived." Seems applicable to your recent life choices.. Also happens to be one of my favorite quotes. Right up there with T.S. Eliot's "If you aren't in over your head, how do you know how tall you are?"
I always enjoy seeing someone that practices their craft out of joy and devotion to the craft itself.
You can take my picture off the milk carton now. :D
Sorry about the big delay in responding. JPswapmon, I started out with this as a hobby. After leaving the silicon forest about 5 years ago I spent some time intensively searching for how to do this stuff. U-tube has been great. Plus I got to spend some training time at A@M in Corneilus Oregon working on a 150,000 dollar copy of the 5 window coup in American graffiti. They have a web page. That car was cool. I also order book and videos as an investment in my hopeful future with this stuff. I would like more hands on, but it is very expensive to get.
So I have been moving. Load after load. This has been my life as of late.
Please note the 69 rebuilt Buick 350 now making this move almost FSJ related...:)
My girl Liz and I took a week up in Juneau Alaska to hang with her family. We were given half a duplex to stay in and a turbocharged WRX to drive while we were there. We caught 17 Coho and had a ball. That WRX would do 0-90 in about 4 seconds and I never left third gear. :D :D
I just gotta post a picture of this. We stayed about 4 miles down the road from here.
I arrived home to the bad news of the death of my cousin Debbie from a ten year battle with breast cancer. She was 52 and a total sweetie. That is number 6 since my Mom passed 1.5 years ago. Gods cleaning house here. He must need them more than we do.
So I have my 4x4 club buddies showing up Saturday to help me move all the wagoneers and some remaining tools up the new place. I needed to fix the roof before moving it. I put some urethane paint in on the rust behind the repair being very careful not to get any paint on the weld area.
Then I needed to punch some holes for plug welds in the bottom of the gutter.
Then to carefully weld it up. After every weld I hit it with air to cool it quickly. I accidentally made a couple holes to chase. I had the TIG set at 80 amps. I was using .030 filler rod since the roof is thinner than the sides of the rig. I probably could have been better off with it set to 60 amps. It worked though.
I painted the backside of the patch part with the paint. I also once the part was welded in painted the floor of the rain gutter to prevent future rust. After an application of new gutter sealant, you won't see the paint and hopefully rust won't show up again. I will coat the entire gutter like this on both sides later.
The final patch. It is a little wavy. My goal is no filler or spot putty. I am not that good yet. I need to make a curved dolly to match the contour of the roof. Then after some stress relieveing and leveling I hope it will only require paint later. My only curved spoon sort of fits in there but not good enough.
I'll have to chase this later.
Then a quick coat of chassis black to seal it for now.
I will move my 69 waggie over so I can weld the rocker. The darn this was rust and dent free till I pulled a little stunt driving my rig in through the filters at the Granite bowl at Rubicon ten years ago. I have a factory purchased replacement to weld in. I will post up as it has to happen before the 20th.
I am also happy to post this pic of the ground breaking for my new 30X60 shop. This is where I intend to work out of later. I need it done. I have stuff to do.:D
All this stuff is making me sleep really well.:p
Wow, I just got done reading through your entire thread start to finish and you have done some amzing work! Can't wait to see what you do in a proper shop. Very sorry to hear about the rough period your family is going through as well, that's a really tough time.
Just popped in here to read up some on IFSJA. The 70 is sitting waiting for the shop. With a near continual breeze here TIG welding is not possible. Rather than box in the carport I want to concentrate every hour on the shop construction or getting this place ready for snow. I should have permits in 10 or so days. I'm still jumping through hoops. Thanks for the words on family. I miss them a lot.
I am also missing working on the old wag. I wish I had update pics to post.
I will finish this project. I just need a little time still. I did just get drinking water up here though...:) There will be some long hours ahead this winter.
THX, and cheers!
very nice work,the best i have seen.
Stunning work man. Wow. :thumbsup:
simply amazing work on a beautifull restoration. i have know idea how i missed this thread. keep up the great work.
I wish I had some good stuff to report on the restoration. Unfortunately I had some delays with the county and eventually I was able to obtain my permits. With absolute buckets of rain falling, every day and week that passed, I saw a concrete pour getting postponed till spring. I was at the point of calling and finding the packet stalled on a desk from a "Lack of info" Post it. With some coaching and some assistance in learning how to lift the cover sheet and actually look at the packet, the said "missing info" was found oddly enough two sheets down in the pile. This happened twice. Trust me I did over a years homework and collecting of required information to prepare for this.
Other than that, things are progressing.:D
This is where I am at. Concrete has been poured.
I put in floor anchors for frame work. And an RV drain.
The epoxy primer I put on sadie the wagoneer before the move has held up extremely well up here. It is WET. at 1200 feet we get soaked from the fog and rain. My 69 X model is under a couple tarps waiting also. It pains me to store my stuff like this. I was hoping to stuff everything in a shelled out shop by now.
Unfortunately the shop construction has been put on hold. It was mudding up my cistern drinking water, plus it's right cold out. Currently it's 24 outside. :) I have friends lined up for a framing party as soon as we can do it. I really need this structure done. I want to
work on metal. Yesterday.:D
It's going to be a long winter. I am currently pretty much camping 24/7 in an RV. The mobile has black mold and is nasty. Kind of like a dirty KOA. you can use it, but you don't want to touch anything. LOL
If I start growing excess facial hair and talking to myself, I'll know it's time to go work on the wag. I'll dig up the hubcaps and see if I can still take out dents. They should fit in here with Liz and I...;)
Thats about the best update I have guys. I look at her every day. I have Sadie's parts all stored in a reroofed shed. They are dry at least.
In case I don't make it back soon, I want to wish everyone a good Christmas.
May the worries be distant and your friends and family close.
That is nothing short of amazing work!
Time to blow some dust of this thread. I have been waiting for the ground to firm up so I can get some trucks in here to keep building my shop. I am still at the ground level. Missing my work, I made a small space to work in in one of my sheds.
I collected all my baby moon hubcaps to see what I had to work with. I need two good rears and thanks to Casey I now have to really good fronts with a factory cut out for the locking hubs.
Before repairing hubcaps or stainless trim it must be spotless clean on both sides.
I have three types of hubcap here. Pure SS, SS with flash chrome, and steel hubcaps with chrome plating. I want two good pure SS caps. You cannot dress the surface of chromed parts. You disrupt the chrome and have a flaw that won't go away until you rechrome it. So if you have a super rare piece of trim or a hubcap, you need to strip the chrome off it first to do the repair. You need to do the same with SS that is flash chromed also. This is done with muratic acid. I am not going to cover that here. You have to neutralize the acid for disposal etc. I was grateful to have three full SS hubcaps. Two were great with only a few flaws. The one I chose to practice on had over 20 flaws.
Junk yards will sell you stuff to practice on. You can tell what you have with a magnet. SS ones don't attract. SS with flash chrome sort of do. The steel ones grab the magnet well.
I'll start small. You need small hammers and equipment to do this. I use my full size hammers and a very small plastic hammer with a brass tip and a plastic tip. I am currently shopping for small plastic hammers to help me out. Your hammers must have a perfect face. Like mentioned earlier in this thread, a cheap hammer will transfer the uneven surface to your work. Dress your hammers.
This surface is unacceptable. It cleaned up in minutes.
Little dents are like big dents. Working from both sides you start at the outside edges of a dent and work in.
The edges of a dent are usually raised. And where it transitions to the radius on this hubcap it was raised and under stress. Light taps here did a lot.
Once the dent looks to be removed it is time to sand or file acrossed it to look for uneven metal or low spots.
Using a sharpie to cover the area, it will show you the low spots to bring up.
A dirty file will scratch your work permanently. Jewelers files work well. I prefer older semi dull files as they don't remove much. On SS trim there is no room to file out your flaws. You must repair and level the metal before this step or you can file through the trim. These hubcaps are thick and pretty forgiving. The object is to apply very light pressure to leave a drag pattern. No so much to remove metal, only to show you the low spots.
My low spots. Bring these out with a small clean faced drift or properly dressed chisel. Go SLOW and don't make more work.
Once the dent is gone I chased it with 400 grit followed by 600 grit, then 1500 grit to prep me for the buffer wheel.
Here is the spot after.
Next... A few more pretty much the same type of work.
You can find flaws by the sharpie method and or using a flat sanding block and changing directions to reveal low spots.
Just work with one at a time. You can use reflected light to see waves in the shine when polished. That means it is not done.
I have an unexpected trip into town. I will return for a shorter part two soon.
I'll cover a bad triple dent that is pretty sizable. This might be a usable hubcap when it is done. I am just trying to hone my skills for the two keepers. They are in much better condition.
|All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:45 PM.|
Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.