and the reason you did not just replace the entire panel is...?

You should try Epoxy Products's Aluthane too. http://www.epoxyproducts.com/aluthane.html They are a New Hampshire business, and always ship to me quickly. This stuff really sticks to most surfaces, even with very little prep.

I think the Hirsch instructions suggest punching a hole in the can lid and closing it with a screw - this works really well and is my preferred method for dispensing. I squeeze out a little into a paper cup for each application. Epoxy Products suggests filling the can with some propane from a torch - which also works (you could use argon from your TIG). Open and close in the usual way and and it sets up like epoxy after a month or two.

I've done a little reading about this topic, and I believe that most or all of these products are MCU (moisture cured urethane). The MCUs bind up any latent moisture in the rust in the cure of the paint. Then they depend on the interlock of the pigment particles to exclude oxygen from the painted surface. Supposedly powdered metal is best at forming a tight seal and excluding O2.

I had a replacement 1/4 section here at my disposal. I decided it was a wash on which way to go. I ended up fixing what was here. Probably less finish work in the 1/4 panel replacement. But I could use the experience trying to repair the middle of a panel with the intent of using as little spot putty as possible. My wagoneer a 1969 X model is next. I just might use the panels there. :)

Thanks for the link. And the tip on back filling the can. I did the screw hole on the Hirsch can and 1 year later it is not usable. The paints sure have improved from years ago though. I can't wait to put on the final green coat on this rig. :thumbsup: Thanks for the new bookmark.

WOW.....what a thread!
 

Kaiserjeeps-

WOW.

Just stumbled on this thread.

Amazing. Awesome. LOVE seeing some FSJ's get resurrected, instead of lobotomized. However, I recognize most folks cut and wheel Jeeps.

Thank you for sharing this, it gives me ideas for my Wag. It makes me wish I could afford a few Wags and bring them back.

Please keep this up, if you can. It's really inspirational. Wags, pickups, panels, hehe, keep on saving them. Thanks also much for the detailed pics,
showing the before and afters, too.

Sooo....? :rolleyes:

Yes...any updates?
 

Agreed...

Any more news? Would love to see some more of your work!

Hello, again! It was great to meet you today. I hope the parts you got today go to good use.

I am going through your build threads and feeling inadequate in my abilities! You're doing some great work, and welcome to the Inland Northwest!

Thanks Adam, It was great to meet you also. What cool projects you have.
It got me fired up to get going on my stuff again.

Sorry to all whom have been following this thread just to watch it go idle.
I spent a lot of time and money building a dream shop only to have to move away. I had drug houses on three sides of me and the authorities did nothing to help. To make a long story short Liz and I got married and sold the place and moved North of Priest River Idaho. We love it here. I am converting a horse barn to a work shop as I type. I should be able to resume this thread by mid winter. I have started purchasing NOS and used parts again. I am so incredibly eager to get back to building rigs. I want to be done with the shop construction. I will resume all this fun. Seeing your rigs Adam really got me going.

I brought both wagoneers and a Jeepster with me. What a haul.

Great to meet you!

I found that AC circular directional vent for that vintage AC unit. Let me know when you're close by and we can meet up! :)

Great Adam! I believe I have misplaced your number. I'll shoot you a PM soon. I need to go to the metal store again and they are close to you.
Thank you very much!

Well this thread is mighty dusty. I suppose I should blow some dust off and post something. I even have pictures.:D Some pretty good things have happened. My wife and I left Oregon. I had to leave my dream shop I just got put up. Probably looking like the Beverly hillbilly's and seven trips later we found our selves in the Idaho panhandle way up North. Deep in the woods I have no immediate neighbors. I can pound on metal all day long and bother no one. :thumbsup:

So Our new place had a horse barn. That was my new shop. The lowest point on that part of the property, it collected water. And there was a ton of floating horse fertilizer. A great testing ground for rubber boots. And nose plugs.

I redid everything. I Raised the floor and added concrete, every piece of metal had to come off. I added doors and I moved doors. Finally just in time before snow fell this fall and nearly 5 whole years since I have had a decent shop to work in, I was done! I will post one shop conversion picture and then get on with the restoration of Bills wagoneer.

Here is the shop mid conversion.



OK, two shop pictures:D
Ready for snow.




So I finished all the metal replacement on the rear quarter on the passenger side. I have some minor leveling to do but it is 98%. I don't believe I posted a picture of the corner before we moved. It looks great.




I was able to finally get both the 70 and my 69 X model inside the building on one side. Time to get busy on the drivers side quarter. The passenger side gave me fits with misalignment after cutting the outer skin away. I watched it move when I cut it. It took me months to figure out where to relieve welds and apply hydraulics to get it straight again. On the drivers side I am replacing the outer skin in very small areas. Only whats rusty. The inner wheel well is rotted all the way from the back door edge and back. So two panels to replace. Inside and outside. Here is some of the rot.

Holes up forward and paper thin metal and collapse of the structure.



And this is good to check. Look at what the replacement metal will weld to. Is it straight? A patch here would look pretty bad unless this line was corrected past the weld joint.




Another thin patch with pitting that was cut out. You can see the inner metal flange in place through the hole. The bad metal not cut out yet.




next

I wanted to make the inner and outer pieces before welding anything in. I wanted to do the outer skin first because I can sort of reach the backside of the weld for plannishing and leveling post weld. The inner skin and weld seam will not be visible.

So I picked up a sheet of 18 GA and 20 GA metal a week or so ago. I started making the patches using new metal. I cut and bent the inner piece in a bending brake. Then started fitting the part using a shrinker stretcher unit made by Lancaster. The original inventor of the unit.



I traced the rough curvature on paper. The car is always more accurate for fitting.



Around the corner and off to the quarter panel for the remainder of the fitting.



The squeezing inside the wheel house. Now to get the new metal to match the old perfectly.




This is the inner rotten metal before it was cut out.



Out come the cleco's. These put the part back in the very same spot every time. Fitting up something is easier with these.



Inside the forward edge just under the rear door. A little gap to fill there.



Old metal is out. Everything fits well. Looks like I can set the parts aside and do the outer skin now.




I will weld in the patches and post up when I get it done. I have a few honey do things to do and it won't be to long. Only a couple more corrosion spots to replace and this jeep will have all the metal work done. What a rusty haul!:)

Fantastic work, both on the barn and the Jeep. :)

Great day yesterday. While looking for a fire protection rig with a neighbor at a wrecking yard, I stumbled on 6 or so wagoneers in the corner. I scored a drivers door with no rust for this rig. I picked up several restorable lens's and some trim. I am going back for an under dash AC unit, a in dash AC unit, a set of correct factory AC pulleys, and tensioners including the Compressor mount. It looks like there is a rust free tailgate or two. I am amazed at the content of classic 's in the yards here. And the condition of chrome parts in general. :thumbsup: I must save them all!! :D

I have one patch welded in. It's 5 above zero here. Brrr. If I strike the body metal it may shatter. :D Dang me it's cold here. More pictures soon.

Thanks Strode! It's all in good fun.

Share the wealth! What yard in North Idaho?

Pegasus in Hayden Adam. There is a second separate wrecking yard sharing the same fence. I don't remember their name. They had 3 or 4 wags also with some (pre 71) trucks in both yards. I have to go back for a few parts I asked for. If you get up there soon, call me and I will meet you there and say hi. I have been wanting to shoot you a call. I'm finally getting settled in here.

My neighbor and I bought a 1972 fire truck tanker from Pegasus for our neighborhood up here. There is no fire protection here. Don't tell my insurance company.:eek: The truck is fully functional and looks new.

I hope to be back on the 70 tomorrow. Not cutting the side off has made it a little more difficult. However nothing has moved at all and that is a very good thing. Body line Alignment is all spot on so far.

I need to search up on wiring harnesses and which one integrates the best.
It will be nice to have all the fuses in one place.

Cheers!

Well I have some more updates. It appears photobucket is broken or something. Update: Fixed

Strange. My photobucket account was deleted. I checked other forums and sure enough my pics were a black X. I sent a note to support and poof. Like it never happened. Not sure what was up with that.

OK so moving forward. I welded in the small patch above the bottom quarter that will be replaced later.



I needed to remove the panel below the door. I need to install the new panel and weld it to the edge of the rear quarter at the seam. Then install the back side or inner metal. This is to thin to try to save. It's also zinc plated and hard to weld too. Jeep put various amounts of sealant here and that seems to make it rust more. Some have a lot and some just a squirt.



The backside.




Cutting spot welds.



Then carefully prying away. I have a tendency to over drill. Prying will show where it is still attached. This tool is hardened and a favorite.



Eventually off it goes. See where there was no sealant there is not much rust. This will need a good paint before getting welded back up.




Continued...

Now here is something really cool. I have been waiting to try this stuff. It says best at about 70F. Well about 50 was all I could muster even with a full bore woods stove and a small heater. I need to insulate my ceiling. The last couple days it has gotten much warmer out. It does help to have the temp right. This was recommended by Kent White, one of the worlds best craftsman and tin benders ever. He says he has tried all rust products. This one is the best. I have to say it worked GREAT!

It's called "Must for Rust". It smells and resembles "Ospho".



It is slow and can be messy. I put down cardboard on the floor. There was a lot of re-wetting going on. It works best that way. I could not believe it. There was some scotch brite work, but it lifted off and was amazing. Reapply and wait.



Check out these tailgate parts. Nothing more than a paint brush and not one bit of sanding or scotch brite. Just a paint brush.



And after. Way cool.



The part I made a year or so ago. The panel in the bottom rear of the wheel well. It got rusty in Oregon waiting to be used.
I was going to scrap it.



It goes here.



After.



I was able to remove the rust from my shrinker jaws, saving them from replacement. I wish I had found this stuff sooner.

So I made a pattern. Super magnets help hold it in place. This helps me cut the tin close to what is needed.



A bend here and there, a little hammering.






I need to cut out the bad. Lightly tack in the new stuff and test fit the outer skin. More soon as I get this panel back on and finish the wheel opening lip.
:)